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Part I: An adventure paddling the Yukon River

Tom and wife Sara Tomlinson head north to do some canoeing
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I like my wife and I like it when she gets an idea for an adventure. Why don’t we canoe the Yukon River she said one day and with some major planning we decided to give a shot.

First things first, we need a canoe. Off to Aquabatics and with Susan the owner’s advice, we picked up a nice looking Hellman.

We had been in Nelson B.C. last year and went to the factory/basement of a house where they were made. We also purchased three bear barrels which provide flotation and storage.

Next on the list was a paddling instruction refresh from Rodger at Northern Sun.

So, after much research and preparing we were off for points north. Arriving in Whitehorse after two fairly long days of driving we walked from the paddle shop to the riverbank. We looked at the water and looked at each other and silently thought this water is moving fairly fast and there seems to be lots of it. The Yukon is considered a class 1 or 2 river meaning not overly challenging but it does have a lot of water.

Next we headed to Minto for our put-in drop off. Seems since my last trip to Minto it had changed from a campground to just a tourist bus stop.

No, we could not leave the canoe there and so, with my Smithers charm and a half hour of pleading, the owner relented. Then it was up to Dawson City to leave the truck for our take out.

We decided to check with the local RCMP on procedures if we had issues. The officer at the desk did not provide confidence as she stated emphatically, we just pulled a woman out of the water, dead, on her anniversary. Watch the sweepers. Again we looked at each other and silently thought, Yikes, are we doing the right thing.

Then we needed to hitch back to Minto, not an easy proposition once you are over 30. I went to the gas station and cornered a truck driver heading south and convinced him we were friendly people.

When we got back to Minto and pushed the canoe into the river instantly a black bear swam across in front of us. I said to Sara, that is a good sign and all the anxiety of preparation lifted and we were able to focus on the job at hand.

At Minto, the river goes northwest away from the road and you are on your own for the next six days.

Our plan for the first day was to reach Fort Selkirk, a distance of around 50 miles. Fort Selkirk has been reconstructed and is an authentic historical site.

Paddling was progressing well and we kept close watch on those sweepers. There it is, river left, a path up the bank, we must be at the Fort. Not too much of a landing but this must be it. We jumped out and headed up the trail to reach a nice cabin and campsite.

This is it, I said to my wife and headed back to the canoe to unload.

After the second trip with the gear I wondered where my wife was. Seems she had walked down the field for a half mile and was heading back. When she got back I had the tent set up and was just starting to relax and enjoy our newfound home.

We have to move, this is not the campsite, she said. We are not moving, I said, this is perfect. This is the historical site and there is no camping here. Dang, we had to move. We hauled all the gear back to the canoe and paddled downriver to the real campsite.

To be continued in next week’s On the Ropes.



Thom Barker

About the Author: Thom Barker

After graduating with a geology degree from Carleton University and taking a detour through the high tech business, Thom started his journalism career as a fact-checker for a magazine in Ottawa in 2002.
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